WINTER

NOVEMBER to JANUARY

November

If you’re considering laying a lawn or want to make repairs to an existing one, now’s the time, but it ought to be done by the end of this month. If growing one from seed, double dig over the soil now using well rotted compost or manure, sow, replace topsoil, fertilize and leave dormant over Winter.

Given suitably mild weather and a ground that’s not too frosty or wet, now is the time to plant your Spring flowering borders.

Roses, Evergreens, Deciduous trees and shrubs should also go in before the end of this month again, given suitable soil and weather conditions.

Younger trees and indeed older ones that cannot withstand extreme cold should be protected against it using Hessian sacking and straw.

Fallen leaves should again be raked and added to compost or separated and piled to form leaf mould.
Last chance to plant your Tulips and other bulbs now.

December

More sweeping and raking to do I’m afraid… It’s back breaking work, but well worth it since it helps the lawn and soil to breathe. Compost the leaves or leaf mould them, burning any diseased ones observing the usual fire precautions.
Fork over the soil between trees, shrubs and climbers, removing weeds and working in the mulch applied earlier. Double dig flowering beds and borders with plenty of well rotted manure to aerate the soil and assist in the breakdown of frosting.

Place straw or dry peat around root areas to protect leaves and flower stems from weather damage. Ensure all support wands and tie strings around trees and shrubs are sound. Renew where necessary. Lawn edges can look tired and weather beaten this time of year, a top tip is to cut away the outer section, turn and replace it. Any gaps or bare patches can then be filled with topsoil but remember, do not do this to a water logged or frosty lawn.
Fruit tress and shrubs can be pruned and the removal of any rotten fruits will prevent the spread of disease. Don’t just leave them to rot down though as this will only help spread disease further, where possible burns them but at the very least, remove them.

January

Not much to do in the flowering borders this month, you could tidy over a bit if you want but very little else will need doing. It’s in the trees and shrubs where the work could be done assuming the weather will allow.

Deciduous trees can be planted now, make sure your planting hole is deep and wide enough to ensure the roots are not cramped. Well rotted compost or manure should be place under the root ball. Tie the stem to a stake to help the young tree combat the elements. While you’re at it, check other trellising and supports. If trees cannot be planted, if the soil’s too wet or too hard, wrap them up in damp Hessian and store in a cool place until later when conditions are more suitable.

Again, given suitable soil conditions, i.e. not too wet or hard, now is a good time to lay turfs for a new lawn or to patch up an existing one. If you’re growing one from seed for next year, double dig the soil leaving the top layer rough dug so that the seasonal frosts can get to work. Any pruning started last month should really be completed by the end of this one.

SPRING

FEBRUARY to APRIL

February

Deadhead previously flowered bulbs and thin out where necessary. Given suitable soil conditions, plant out fruit trees and bushes, hoeing and fertilizing towards the end of the month.

Rake up dead leaves that have collected throughout the winter. If you look under bushes or hedging (especially Box) you’ll be surprised what you’ll find. Lightly hoe the soil, working in a general fertilizer. Check the lawn for any waterlogged areas, if there is water logging, spike to turf to aid irrigation.

Plant roses, shrubs and deciduous trees cutting out any deadwood, diseased or broken twigs.
Thoroughly dig over any beds you plan to cultivate later working in well rotted compost or manure.

March

In your flowering borders and beds cut back the herbaceous perennials, hoe and fertilize. Continue to prune the roses and deadwood trees and shrubs as necessary. If it looks dead, it probably is and plants and trees will recover well from heavy pruning as long as this is done properly. Snow can be very heavy, it is very cold and very wet. How would you feel if you were covered in it for any length of time? Remove snow where it has built up on branches as they may split or break off under the strain. Check trellising or any “Man made” wooden structures for signs of rot. Treat with a suitable protection agent.

The elements may still be making their mark so there’ll be some clearing up to be done for sure.

April

“Drip, drip, drop little April showers” Yes, it rains in April, even in Suffolk!! So be prepared to get wet. This is a good thing though since the ground needs it and pretty soon, come Summer, it’ll be hot again and you’ll be crying out for rain. Top tip: buy a water butt. Butt collected rainwater is manna from heaven for your garden.

Deadhead those Spring flowering bulbs removing weeds as you go. Clear borders and beds of all winter debris lightly hoeing between cultivated plants. Continue to prune roses and deadwood trees, trim back hedges and cut back evergreens and shrubs. If they have grown spindly and unsightly, trim them right back, they’ll grow back stronger next time as a result. Evergreen hedging i.e. Box should be planted out now.

SUMMER

MAY to JULY

May

When removing dead flower heads from bulbs it’s a good idea to cut the stem low to the ground or as near to the base as possible.

Hoe flowerbeds removing weeds but take care not to damage shallow roots on plants that you’ve previously cultivated. Apply fertilizer and mulch. Spring bedding plants should be uprooted after flowering. Taller growing perennials should be staked and tied in to assist against wind.

Evergreens should be planted now, given a thorough watering and mulched. Hedges like Privet should be pruned back, as should shrubs that have completed their flowering cycle. Do not be afraid to cut back hard on the stems that previously flowered, this will encourage good strong growth in the future.

Mow the lawn at least once a week and water using a sprinkler or better still, the water collected over time in your butt. Be mindful of any bans or water restrictions that come into play.

June

Overcrowded spring flowering bulbs should be lifted, boxed and stored in a dry place in readiness for next seasons planting. All spent exterior foliage to be removed when dry, along with outer bulb scales.

Weed or hoe flowering borders regularly, taking care not to damage stems or shallow root systems.
Stake and tie any taller growing plants.

Plant half hardy annuals and biennials. Thin out hardy annuals.

Sow herbaceous perennials.

Clip hedges, dead head early roses and tie in climber.

Mow lawn twice a week lifting weed stems with a grass rake beforehand.

A good month for the use of ecologically sound fertilizers and butt collected rainwater.

July

Deadheading and good watering during this time will encourage future growth in many plants. The use of clean mulch aids moisture retention and is especially useful during periods of drought.

Deep root watering using butt collected rainwater is recommended.

Trim hedges where necessary and prune shrubs that have reached the end of their flowering cycle.

Lift late flowering Tulips and plant bulbs for Autumn flowering.

Cut the lawn twice a week still, watering thoroughly using butt collected rainwater whenever possible.

Weed by hand or Hoe checking plants and trees for insect or fungal attack. Treat as necessary with an ecologically sound pesticide.

AUTUMN

AUGUST to OCTOBER

August

Deadhead all herbaceous plants, annuals and biennial bedding plants. This will encourage further flowering.

Cut back hedges, prune shrubs, climbers and trees after flowering and deadwood where necessary to encourage the growth of new wood and aid next years flowering.

Mow the lawn twice a week still and use plenty of butt-collected rainwater. (Beware hosepipe bans due to water shortage, cracks in the pipes, the wrong kind of rain etc)

Weed by hand or hoe, mulch perennials with clean grass cuttings.

Apple trees should be bearing fruit now.

September

Plant spring flowering bulbs but leave Tulips until October.

Tie in late flowering perennials and deadhead plants as the flowers fade removing dead stems of perennials.

Tree planting can begin in earnest now. Conifers including Yew, Holly, Box and Privet should be planted in well prepared soil, which has been dug deep containing well rotted manure or compost.

The end of this month should see the final trimming of mature hedges.

Decorative trees, fruit trees and shrubs should be planted next month but you should start preparing the soil now adding manure or compost so that it is properly bedded in for October.

Deadhead the Roses and tie in the climbers so as they don’t run off all over the place, ‘coz they will you know..!!
The grass is slowing down now so no more twice weekly cuts but rake and aerate it from time to time.

October

Fallen leaves are a great additive to the compost heap or they can be collected separately to rot down and form leaf mould.

Lift summer flowering plants and add them to the heap. Cut herbaceous perennials down to soil level and do the same.

Lightly fork the soil and lay out your spring flowerers removing weeds as you go.

Deciduous trees and shrubs can be planted throughout the Winter given workable soil conditions but you may as well start now, after all this writer believes you can never have too many..!!

Deciduous hedges can be cut back quite hard as this will encourage growth later on.

You shouldn’t need to worry too much about the lawn this month giving you more time too concentrate on bulbs and borders.

Throw them in, any old how, I’d say…uniformity’s great but hey, this is nature…let her do her thing…

Tree Care and Garden Services in Ipswich, Suffolk - click here to contact us